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All drawings by phillip c. reiner (hi@phillipreiner.com).

Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/)



index.jpg




The Box is made to custom fit on any Larry vs. Harry - Bullitt.

Bounding Box Dimensions are 815 x 630 X 464 mm.

Material 9mm coated plywood (any other 9mm material shall work as well.)

Total Weight around 9.5kg

Milling incl. Material shall be around 250€ - 300€.

Material needed is one board 9mm - 1250 mm x 2500mm

00 dim copy.jpg


01 Pick Material (Material both sides the same, jump to 02.)

Often you get the coated plywood with one side smooth and the other side rough.

Therefore all boards are divided into two groups:

Green: Mill with shiny side facing upwards

Red: Mill with raw side upwards

This way all you connections will slide in (note there will always be a small radius due to the milling tool.)

At the end all surfaces but the floor (avoid slipping) will be shiny on the inside and raw on the outside. Easier to clean or dry off.

02.jpg




02 Request Milling


A, save money: Use Contours (and jump to 04)

Send the milling files and tell them to cut all contours with a 6mm bit.


B, save time: Use Surface file

Attach this text to the milling files:


All parts will fit on one board 9mm (2500mm x 1250mm)

The seven green parts have to be milled with the shiny side up.

The three green parts have to be milled with the raw side up.

All parts have to be milled according to she surfaces from top.

Meaning it is not enough to just cut the contours.

Nevertheless overhangs can be ignored and parts only need to be milled from this one top side.

The data is designed to be milled with a three axis machine using a 6mm bit.

(Use a smaller bit to precut in order to avoid cracks in the surface finishing)


In order to be easier to assemble the surfaces will be milled with a radius in the top surface at the joineries.

Therefore your milling company has to work with the surface and not only the contours.

If you like to safe money or they are not able to, you can only mill by contours as well, but your front corner will look less nice and you will spend around 40 min rasping the negative corners so the box aligns nicely.


detail joint.JPG





03 Changes (Don´t want to change anything, jump to 04)

All board fit on one standard board (1250 x 2500mm), so be careful if you change the design, to not raise material costs by exceeding this board.

If you don´t want the option to transport anyone, you can leave out the five smaller parts and also delete the long holes in the back.


04 Assembly (~30 min)

Use a rubber hammer to pre-assemble everything but the bench.

I recommend screwing with (~50x) 3*40 screws. Pre-drill with a 2mm bit.

If you like to glue, I highly recommend using Lamellos.


For the seating only screw the back and the sides panels with (~15x) 3.5*16 directly into the side walls.

You will be able to slide parts in or out and you can store them at the back by sliding them in vertically.


slide.JPG



05 Attachment (~15min)

Below the Box you will need 3 pieces to cover the distance between frame and box.

Use 3x 300mm aluminum rectangular profile 35mm x 20mm

Drill 11mm Holes across the smaller side of the profile: at two pieces in a distance of 250mm, at one piece centered.

Use 3 x 300mm*25mm*2mm rubber between box and profile (and also between bike frame and profile). The Box will now hover slightly above the frame.

Use 5x M10-80mm countersunk head with washers and flat self-securing nuts.

On the back use 2x M6 - 40 mm countersunk with washers and self-securing nuts

You will need to sink all holes manually, since all boards are milled from the other side.

This setup may seem a little too much to hold the box, but the intention is to have a box, which does not make any sound once you ride over couple stone. The thin material immediately starts vibrating if not hold in place properly.

DSC_0205.JPG.jpg


06 Rain Cover (optional)

If you want to do the cover as well, this is the fabric I used

1m² of Cordura, 500den, TPU-beschichtet, HF-schweißbar, 370g/qm

with a 4m - 5mm elastic rope.


01.jpg



I recommend this change:

In our version it also covers the stirring knob of the bike in the front, but it will be better to just cover the box for the water to rinse off (like used in the picture).

To do this just take the upper half of the drawing and mirror it.

The cover will fit in the small gap between bike and box in the front.

Then you could even leave in on one peace and only sew the corners together.

Use a hot iron with baking paper to fold the edges.

You can use 12mm eyelets.We fixed it from below with four "Rundknöpfe", so the bike does not get wider and still fits through our door.


Rundknopf_beidseitig_Kunststoff_schwarz.png



There will be a small gap all around. Note the cover is slightly wider in the back to have the possibility to stick an edge protection over the back of the box.



s-l1600.jpg


07 Safety Belts (optional)

Safety belts (25mm) usually come from China and take forever to ship.

It very difficult to find cheap ones that ship fast. This is actually the hardest part of the project.

The lower part you can screw into the bench from below.



08 Fine-tuning (optional)

The sliding rail of the bench has a little too much tolerance. This is, because if the wood gets wet it will get a little thicker and it will be very hard to remove the top of the bench. You can cancel the sound be attaching another piece of rubber at the middle of the front edge of the underside of the bench. This way the bench will be wedged and won’t vibrate on the front edge.



You are very welcome to comment, change or improve the design.

If you decide to build this box yourself I´d be happy to see pictures of the finished as well.



Enjoy your Ride!


Best,


Phillip



(contact: hi@phillipreiner.com)
 

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  • 170621 bullittBox rev05 pcr.zip
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Schöne Idee und Umsetzung. Jetzt fehlt nur noch die Fräse im Keller.

Danke für die Mühe und die Weitergabe deiner Ideen!
 
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weil die Frage nach der deutschen Version per Mail aufkam:

Leider gibt es die Beschreibung im Moment nur auf englisch.
Hatte das alles schon mal einem Freund, der kein Deutsch spricht, per Email geschrieben und somit nur nochmal editiert.
Versuch doch mal Google Translate und wenn Du irgendwas gar nicht verstehst, stell die Frage am besten im Forum, dann kriegen es alle ,die die selbe Frage quält gleich mit.
Im Grunde reicht es, die Dateien am Ende des Posts ( http://www.cargobikeforum.de/forum/index.php?attachments/170621-bullittbox-rev05-pcr-zip.3939/ ) runterzuladen und die Dateien im Ordner "bullittBox MillingFiles rev05" an den Fräser Deiner Wahl mit dem Text (auch auf Deutsch im zip) zu schicken.
Der Zusammenbau ist mehr oder weniger selbsterklärend und Material zum festmachen besorgst du einfach alles was unter Punkt 05 fett gedruckt ist.
Vielleicht krieg ich es ja mal hin, das zu übersetzen. Bis dahin viel Glück und bitte melde Dich einfach bei Fragen.
 
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@phillip : Wie hoch ist die Sitzfläche bei Deiner Bank? Oder genauer gefragt: Wie hoch ist die Rückenlehne bei Deiner Kiste, also von Sitzfläche bis oberkante Rückenplatte?
 
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@Benji : Kuck mal hier als rudimentäres PDF zum ausdrucken in 1:1 (A0 bzw A1) oder selbst vermaßen.
Nicht besonders sexy, aber hoffe du kommst damit zurecht.
Bitte Kommentare beachten.
Gruß, Phillip
 

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  • 170912 bullittBox rev 05RAW pcr.pdf
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Vielen lieben Dank Dir!

Weiß nicht genau wie ich es messen soll, aber ich schaue mal!
Danke nochmals, falls es klappen sollte poste ich mal ein Bild!
GLG Benjamin
 
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I recommend this change:

In our version it also covers the stirring knob of the bike in the front, but it will be better to just cover the box for the water to rinse off (like used in the picture).

To do this just take the upper half of the drawing and mirror it.

The cover will fit in the small gap between bike and box in the front.

Then you could even leave in on one peace and only sew the corners together.

Update Plane (untested!).
Gruß,
Phillip
 

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  • 171026 bullittCoverDesign 06 pcr.pdf
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Phillip, deine Arbeit hat mich sehr inspiriert, meine eigene Box zu bauen!

Frage: Es scheint in deinem Regenschutz dass Sie die Ösen direkt durch den Stoff gepresst sind (ohne Verstärkungsstreifen). Hält das noch immer gut nach ein paar Monaten (Jahr?)?
 
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Hi ernstig,
ja, der Stoff ist nur einmal umgeschlagen. Zwei Ösen sind tatsächlich ausgerissen, aber nur weil das Rad etwas zu knapp durch die Haustür passt.
Deswegen verbogen und dann raus. Verstärken ist bestimmt eine gute Idee.
Lieben Gruß,
Phillip
 
C

Cäptain Claude

Guest
Hallo,
ich plane gerade einen Nachbau deiner Kiste und muss den Fräßer im Vorfeld reservieren. Kannst du eine ungefähre Zeitgabe machen, wielange der Fräßprozess dauert?

Vielen Dank
 
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Michael hat eine Variante der Box gebaut und alles richtig gut dokumentiert. Bitte nachbauen, weiterentwickeln und teilen! Schaut Euch das an:
 
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